To the Isles of Scilly

October 08, 2023

After crossing back from Paimpol me and Falanda spent a few quiet days anchored in Falmouth, where we were then joined by Otter on his gorgeous boat 'Wendy May'.

We rafted up and enjoyed our view of the tall ships as they came in, and spent the next week messing around getting the boats ready. We were also waiting out storm Betty, which came in with force and pushed a couple of boats out of the anchorage.

Falanda carries a big 10 kilo Bruce which held her down effortlessly, whilst I helped out onboard Wendy May, who had dragged anchor, and was soon to be sandwiched between a 40 ft ketch and an incredible 38ft Wharram. Otter had been having some engine issues which presented themselves again at the very peak or the blow, when the engine didn't start and he had to bleed the whole fuel system before he could re-anchor.

By daybreak there was only little wind left to blow, so we sailed up the Fal, surprised at how evenly matched the boats were as we raced downwind. I swam as Otter scraped the barnacles off his prop and we left early the next morning for Newlyn.

The first stretch was to the lizard, where Falanda and I tacked upwind, leaving Wendy May wallowing on a close reach. Introducing the engine encouraged her sails to fill so we were soon side by side again. Falanda seemed happy to have an old gaffer alongside and sailed nicely as the wind dropped slightly and dolphins joined the mermaid at her bow. We spent an hour or so sailing with a smart Contessa 26, and it was interesting to see the difference in the 3 boats upwind.

Rounding the Lizard was uneventful apart from the company of a minke whale which sank below Falanda's hull, resurfacing later on our starboard bow. After rounding the headland we had a much more comfortable wind angle, and once Wendy May had been suited with her new balloon jib we were more evenly matched, despite Falandas partially furled headsail.

Just after 8pm we sailed into Newlyn, dropping anchor after 41nm. We had a horribly rolly night, falanda rolling so much even the berths creaked.

Otters phone got wet and departure the next morning was delayed until a very embarrassing 4pm when we left, already sleep deprived, for Scilly.

Falanda and I had a cracking sail along the coast to Lands End, where we slowed down and waited for Wendy May, who was finding the upwind stretch not quite so pleasant. Passing the cardinal mark off Lands End was quite rolly with an initial long swell that was filled out with that short chop that makes progress very slow.

The forecasted wind shift didn't happen, and by sunset we were left with a dwindling headwind and short, choppy sea. By dark the wind had died almost completely, and what little there was was directly on the nose. Falanda made small progress but we waited for Wendy May who looked like a old ghost ship, all sails set as we drifted along in the dark. Crossing the shipping lanes seemed to take forever, going at a maximum of 2.5kts even with engines on.

After a couple of hours the tide turned, taking us in a much better direction and speeding us up to almost 4kts, still motor sailing. By midnight we were approaching St Mary's at around 6kts, lots of tide pushing us on and surrounded by all the invisible crab pots we knew were there.

We dropped sails, and motored into the Cove, a small bay -type anchorage between St Agnes and Gugh. At 2am we dropped our anchores in what we thought seemed like a reasonable spot, and turned in for another rolly night of interrupted sleep.

The next morning we were surprised to see the pots and mooring we had so very closely missed, but I was happy that Falanda was at a safe distance to the surrounding yachts and we weren't too close to the rocks that lined the anchorage.

The next week was spent exploring the beaches around St Agnes, whilst we swam and caught up with friends in the anchorage. We had a lovely fire on an empty beach, and were invited over for a meal on a great French boat we had met previously in Paimpol whilst we discussed our crossings.

It was nice to have company for both the sailing, and time on anchor, and the two boats looked perfect together. Wendy May is a 25' gaff cutter, built in 1936. She is absolutely gorgeous, and despite being significantly slower than Falanda, I think she is one of the most perfect boats. (Beside mine.)

Otter Fisher